Conterno Fantino, Barolo, Ginestra Sori 2008

The 2008 Barolo Sori Ginestra is the most complete of these 2008s. An exotic melange of plums, black cherries, menthol, spices and licorice takes shape in the glass. The 2008 Ginestra impresses for its textural depth, richness and aromatic nuance. Layers of fruit build towards the sweeping finish in this multi-dimensional, textured Barolo. Ginestra is one of the great sites in Barolo. The 2008 captures all of the magic. This is the most refined, polished young Sori Ginestra I have ever tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. Conterno-Fantino is one of a handful of properties that deliver outstanding quality throughout their entire range. The 2008 Nebbioli were picked very late. The last of the Ginestra fruit did not come in until October 26. Fabio Conterno describes 2008 as a vintage marked with huge diurnal shifts towards the end of a very long growing season. Conterno-Fantino remains a leading exponent of the modern school of Barolo, but today macerations are longer than normal, casks have been added to the French oak barriques and the wines are more polished than they have ever been. The Conterno-Fantino Baroli used to be tannic beasts when young, but the 2008 Baroli are surprisingly accessible at this stage. I imagine the wines will close down at least somewhat over the coming months, but even if they do, these Baroli stand out for their finesse. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

• Drinking Window: 2015 - 2028
• Reviewer Name: Antonio Galloni
• Review Date: April 2012