Amaren, Graciano 60, Rioja 2019

A terrific expression of Rioja’s other red grape, the 2019 Graciano 60 is made from vines with a minimum age of 60 years old from two plots, El Pomal planted in 1912 and Calvarios in 1915 to a specific clone known for contributing concentration to the wines. Tiny in production, it has the variety’s signature bright acidity that keeps it fresh and energetic on the palate, the wine concrete-fermented and aged in concrete and larger French oak. The tannins are rounded and unobtrusive. Complex layers of rose petal, white pepper, and high-toned red fruit pop along the medium-bodied, textured midpalate, leading to a spicy finish. This is one of the producer’s many wines meant to preserve tradition in the area and older vines. Enjoy over the next 20 years.

• Reviewer Name: Jeb Dunnuck